It's held up well for the last half of last season and the first half of this season so far. I was kind of surprised it was that easy, and it seemed to help enough I noticed. Just look at what you're dealing with and think about it. You can also get a lot of anti-dive under braking when the strut is off-axis like that.
Compression wants to rotate the knuckle rearward, so the brake caliper trying to rotate the knuckle forward drives the suspension into the ground. They also need this to counteract the high amount of pro-squat engineered into the suspension with the control arm.
The forward pivot is a lot higher up than the rearward, so forward force on the knuckle also drives the wheel into the ground. I haven't seen a WRC suspension that had high-offset struts that didn't also have high angularity on the control arm Let's just say that we've changed some of our design requirements. Besides, travel testing makes for fun pictures. This car has 7.
That coil-over offset in front of the halfshaft is cool. Wonder what it looks like behind the brake rotor. Is the knuckle shaped different to allow for that, or is the strut mounting bracket different than the traditional ears?
Keith, I get your comment. I'm just curious where companies are commonly finding the room for extra travel. I would think, assuming the same ride height, that there really isn't a way to get additional travel from a shock of the same length.
You could sacrifice compression travel for droop travel or vice versa, but inside a shaft a piston can only move so far, right? When we replace the struts in our rallyx car, I intend to move it through its travel without the spring in place to have a look at everything, but its unlikely that would change our path anyway.
Only so much you can do on a tiny budget with a car with no aftermarket support. From what I have seen, the struts don't have ears, they are pinched down by a 4 bolt clampy thing engineering term.
Friggin Ford of UK pinchy thing but less pinchy and more clampy. The front is usually a much smaller diameter and much longer spring than stock, plus different shocks with a special shaft and custom strut tops and bump stops:.
You're right, you can't get more overall travel without increasing shaft travel. Sometimes there's room in a stock size shock body for more shaft, sometimes there isn't. For example, the front shocks on an ND Miata usually should have room for another 2. The rears are fully utilized. So, if you can't get more shaft travel out of the shock dimensions, you have to make room for a longer shock. That's where you get into the turreting that ae86andkp61 mentioned.
When we do Fox suspension for a new platform, for example, we find out what the limits of the suspension linkages are, then figure out how to package a shock with the shaft travel we need to reach those. Side note - any time you're shopping for coilovers and they tout "adjustable body length!
Stay away. So I was cleaning the garage the other day and came across the factory struts for both the rally Bentra and my DD Saturn. Unsurprisingly, it has 2. This is ignoring motion ratios, but on both cars the suspension attach very close to the wheel so the ratio is very close to Anyway, also on both cars, the strut body seems significantly longer than the shaft.
What's a typical piston height inside the body? Its clear after measuring that the big way to gain travel would be to put different struts in there. Assuming no coil-bind, pretty much any other mechanical interference on the rallyx car could probably be resolved with a sawzall, hammer, etc.
So where does one get a strut of roughly the same size with extra stroke? Nissan front drivers tend to have extremely low front travel, for whatever weird Nissan reason. It isn't uncommon for them to be a half inch off of the bumpstop at rest.
The strut body can't be all stroke, because there needs to be internal room for bushings or, sometimes, roller bearings! More bushing length means more strut strength and lateral stiffness, as does more diameter, which is why all decent rally suspension is upside-down struts the bushing rides on the OUTSIDE and the shaft sees no side load and IIRC they are up to 70 or 80mm now for the high end stuff and 60mm for clubman stuff.
You can't use 2. I know we're mostly talking about high-end custom stuff here, but the problem i have seen lifting things with front CV axles is the passenger axle dragging on the inner control arm mount area.
Not as much of a problem with cars with intermediate shafts and equal length CV axles. Anyway, regarding axles be careful about changing stock travel. If the inner joint either extends or compresses too much, it's going to fail.
I actually blew up an inner CV joint at 70mph WOT boooost bottoming out through a dip in one of my Caravans and the broken axle slapping around broke my transmission case. If you read our last RallyCross feature, we outlined suggestions for good cars to get you started in the sport.
But now what? Obviously, any competition car needs to be in good working order. Beyond basic maintenance, you should make sure any worn suspension bushings or components are replaced and any low-hanging parts are either moved in to a better location perhaps pivot that exhaust clamp or protected with a skid plate.
Once you have the car mechanically sorted and protected, what upgrades are necessary? The thing to remember about your suspension is that its only job is to keep the tires in contact with the ground. To that end, a fresh set of shocks is the best bang-for-your-buck investment for RallyCross vehicle upgrades tires notwithstanding. While a little extra height via spring or tires will offer a margin of safety, most cars are fine at the stock ride height.
But contrary to what you might imagine, factory steel wheels may bend easier than stock aluminum ones. Now, if you can afford rally-specific wheels, those are also ideal.
On to powertrain modifications, your best investment is going to be in some type of limited slip differential. Many will say a clutch type LSD is best for loose surfaces, but helical gear differentials have also proven to be effective. Even welded diffs work great on dirt, they just require a unique driving style. While RallyCross speeds are not great, brakes should not be overlooked.
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